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vendredi 11 février 2011

the rest of Bogota

Bogota. 11.02.11

I might as well throw in a few pictures on the rest of Bogota....

samedi 29 janvier 2011

La bouffe

15.03.11


Everyday, I go out. Every time I go out, I come accross food I-d never tried before. So whenever I go out, I just spend my time eating. Here are a few of my latest discoveries.




Ceviche de Camaron. These are shrimps that they mix in a ketchup and vinigar mix. Lots of other things in the sauce. Not easy to make. They make it also with all sorts of fish. The whole idea is that the fish should be fresh and raw. It *cooks* when its mixed in with the vinigar and the lemon juice.





Oxfam organised some sort of a food fair in the center of Bogota, in Front of the presidential palace and the ssenate, Lots of interesting stuff to eat including soops and roasts of all sorts.





This is my favourit. Its called LECHONE. Its a roasted pig stuffed with rice, corn and potato. Yumi. 6000 pesos a portion that comes with a drink and an arepa


I found my favourit place to eat Arepa con queso. Strangely enough,m these are called arepas, but don-t have the shape nor the consistency. The cheese squeeses out of the sides when you bite into it, and it makes long strings when you pull at it. ITs the only proppeer cheese stuffed food Ive found here so far.



The brown cake on the left os BAnana cake., they really know how to cook their bananas here. BEst desert i-ve had here although coconut and milk pudding is good too.



Queso Paipa. This is the only matured cheese that Ive found so far. So this actually looks and tastes like cheese. Others have a line on the package that mentions *queso typo mozzarella*. It makes you guess to start with that its not mozzarella, and since it wouldnt have a name of its own, it even makes you wonder whether its actually cheese at all. Queso PAipa is the only proper one, and the only onem I buy. 9000 pesos for a whole one. People eat it with Boccadillo (Goyaba paste). Combunation is interesting: since the Boccadillo is a sort of sweet fruit gelly paste, its similar to they way they eat cheese in Corsica, except that the cheese it self is not as tasty.









This is the inside of a giant oven we foudn in Villa de Leyva. I could have stood in there and not even touch the top. There was beef cooking in there. It smelt so good we sat at a table for a meal. Excellent piece of meet!



BANDEJA PAISA. The typical country man-s meal in the area of Bogota. Its usually cooked and served on a flat dish amde of clay> something you see less often since they relised that there were hygene problems with the clay dishes. The *bandeja* always consists in rice, beans, and egg, fried platana, an arepa, porc scratchings, a piece of avocado, a sausage and either minst meat or a piece of steak. They-d give you so much in one helping that I got used to going for them with a friend, and we-d split one between the two of us/ Served with a fruit juice and an Ajiaco soop (chicken soup) - 9000 pesos




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Food.
This is probably one of my main interests when I travel. So i had to write a little something to show you all what you get around here. these are just pictures of stuff I'vebeen eating, and a few words of personal opinion about it. The descriptions will probably not be very relevant, so if you want to identify in more familiar terms what it was that I actually eat, you'd beter refer to wiki.

The streets are loaded with corner shops and peopel pushing char riots full of junk food. It's difficult to resist it all, especially since it sall so cheap and tasty.

HEre's quite a good selection of what you can find: most of this is fried or baked with meaty fillings..


These here are Bunelos. They're sort of like bread only they're deep fried. And they're really good though a bit dry if you don't cover it in aji sauce and Salsa Rosa.


This is just me happy to be eating.


Colombian coffee. it all produced here. It wasnt very tasty though. apparently, all the best is exported.


Tamales. The concept is vcery similar to our chinese rice things, coz these are rapped in bana leaves too. They contain rice, porc and egg like what we get, but these have also some potato, beef and chicken in them. Very tastym and one is enough to keep you goign all day. We get them for diner at the hostel every now and again.


Roasted pig. This stuff is sold int he streets, and the skin is particularly appreciated here too. its crispy and has a good thick layer of fat, It costs nearly 30 euro cents for a small portion of the skin. Good stuff.


A bog canteen sinilar to what you get in china. Food is very cheap and you can get all sorts of thing. i go there after school from time to time, to treat my self with a proper meal instead of my usual diet of junk food i find in the streets. I got used to sitting at the same stand, and they usually help me with a traditionnal fish soop or salad, a big plate of chips, rice, vegies and meat. It's very satisfying and costs only 5000COP or approx 2 euros.














This is just a poicture of me messing about in front of a freezer. We were ust thinking how unusual the girl of the picture was. Not that she looks strangem only that she-s not the sort of girl that you-d expect to find on an ice cream freezer. Don-t you think she be more suited for an advert for L-Oreal? Oh. and we also found it funny that they should have named her *Polet*





















*Queso con Bocadillo*. Queso is cheese. What they have here, and its actally the only cheese they have / is similar to a bad mozzarella, with even less taste. IT can come salted and more or less fresh. In this case, it is sold in big chunks with a fruit paste called Bocadillo. Its in fact a Guava paste and you et it together with the cheese. Its special, but i quite liked it,. Every body eats cheese with bocadillo here. Its an interesting and subtle combination of sweet and salty. Couldnt eat it every dya though.





















This portion cost me 2000cop, or 80 euro cents.





















This is what a chinese restaurant looks like in Bogota. YEs it is really! If you look well at the back in the kitchen, there-s a man peeping from the top of the stairs, and he is asian! I was expecting there to be more asians around, in fact, there are some chinese in Bogota, but they-re all working in the kitchens, and just never seem to go out of their restaurants!





















The fruit people are a speciy of street vendors. There many sorts of them, bnut hese are my favourite> theyre the cheapest, and definitely the healthiest coz they sell fruit and freshly pressed juices! Here, ;y ;ate buying an orange juice paid 1000 cop. A cup full of mango dices costs the same! you cn also get pineaplple, papaya and peaches! Mosty likely all the best i've ever had.





















Arepa de mais con Chorizo. Chorizo here isn-t quite the same than what you get in spain. To start withm, chorizo here isnt spicyma nd it has to be cooked on the barbecue! They-re like any other bis smoked saucage, and you aparently can-t eat it raw. They-re not as tasty as the spanish ones., HEre, it came in a piece of bread clled AREPA. Its made with corn flour and always lacks a bit of salt in my opinion. But its the best sort of bred they have here. All the rest are soft spungy breads, and they add sugar to the dough or something. 1500cop





















Several places here sell these dishes. It may look unhealthy, but its in fact a fruit salad. These things are delicious! Strawbery, apple, peaches, pineapple, coconut and a rasberry couli over it. Here in colombia, a salad is not associated to diet. So they add some ice cream to it, and something currious> they sprinkle it with mozzarella cheese!



08.02.11
More food!!!!

In this pic, i was walking past plaza bolivar, and i saw these two strange fellows who were selling what first looked like yoghourt, It ended up being so;e sort of sweet foam that had a similar flavour to mashmellow. couldnt finish it all. too sweet. but was an interesting experience. cost: 1000cop



Yeah this is what the stuff loooks like: they spoon it into a plastic cup, pour sirup over it and then you scoop it out.







A very cheap hotdog. They call them 'perro caliente' which is the litteral translation of what it means in english, there actually is a sausage in there, its covered under tasteless cheese and sauces of all kind. I think i had ketchup, mayo, honey and some sort of apple curd. wasnt very good. They do have better stuff here, but its often much more expensive. this was only 1500cop




OBLEAS> Now from what i underdstandm this is something specific to colombia, its a sort of crispy sweet and thin pancake that they cover with a whole load of interesting thing. First time i saw this, on my very first day, i saw they had cheese in a jar. I went for it. But then the price i was paying included a second ingredient, so i asked what she could advise, and i ended up with a layer of 'Dulce de leche', which is some sort of tophee paste...




jeudi 27 janvier 2011

Bogota: carreras; calles and transports

bogota is full of contrasts. one of the most striking must be in the architecture. There are areas that are very poor, and others that are extra rich. it goes From perfect brick pavements and tarmac to dry dusty tracks and roughly layed stones. The diofference between the two is obviou, and the poorer areas are not necessarily dangerous. You need to know your way around, and since I work at a bar where customers are essentially travellers, I get a lot of information, and i even find my self giving some advice.

Fortunately; there are lots of means of transports to get you anywhr ein the city and you can see most of it trhough window of a Colletivo if you won't risk a walk. But it turns out that Bogota is safe as long as you don't "dar la papaya"(litterally "give the papaya": basically means that you shouldn't show off objects that could be tempting to rob - but after all, that's a very basic rul when travelling). Taxxis are cheap too. You cn get from one end to another of the capital for just approx 5 euros. The transmilenio is a rather good mean of transport: they have lanes of their own on the roads. It makes them quit quick and it costs less than a euro to take the,. They're trying to xpand the netoork to all the suburbs. Problem i that the transmilenio is always extra crowded.

I've been here for approx two weks now. i thought it was about time for me to show you a bot ore of my environment. Bogota i mush bigger than the Candellaria. This area ilive in feels like a village within the city. A bit like Montmartre in Paris. It's rather calm compared to the rest where the dense traffic, crazy buses make it impossible to get anywhere without waisting the whole day in public transports. Since my working hours in the bar are from 6 PM to 1 AM, it leaves me all day to explore the city and its curiosities. Lately, I've been struggling with paper work to try and get the "cedula de extranjero": the residence card, or local ID for foreigners. That also got me to travel left right and center. The bus system is a mess and doesn't always make sense. No map, no apparent organisation. Buses are of all shapes and colours with just a piece of card stuck on the front window with what seems to be some messy juvenile collage of colourful numbers, and street names umong other things like super market logos (french market Carrefour is quite big here). Those are unfortunately the only indicatiosn you can use to identify where the bus is going. Its always an adventure to hop on one, coz you could end up anywhere. It took 4 buses to get me to the DAS (departamento administrativo de seguridad) Fortunately, people are always nice and do their best to help. At least, you can be sure it will be a differente xperience everytime, and it's definitely an optimal way to see the city.












Inside a bus. you pay the guys in the front as you get in. pruice 1400cop for a single ride. there's usually a window between




jeudi 20 janvier 2011

Places and stories I hear about

16.02.11

San Pedro Prison.
I won't write too nmuch about this place. people who know it will probably understand why. This is just to say that you can contact me if you wish to have a chance to get in. I have the email and the facebook contact of one of the inmates....



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- Salt mine in Bogota.
There's a salt mine 15 km fronm Bogota. They decided to build something that apparently, looks like a cathedral in there. this must be particularly special to vosot.

- Cuba:
A place that came to my mind ages ago, and that I never thought to be possible: Cuba. This place was mentioned very recently witha friend on my way from Florence to Paris. It got me completely obsessed agaibn. Here in Colombia, several travellers that sit athe bar have been there, and it seems to be a traveller,s paradise. Flight is fairly expensive, but life over there is meant to be peanuts. Apparently, there are two currencies in Cuba: one meant for tourists, the other for locals. Obviouslym, the rate of change is different. It's one pesos for a US dollar in one case, and 25 pesos for a US dollar in the other. The currencies look similar. You just need to recogbnise the codes on the bank notes. A foreigner would first be presented with the tourist pesos. You'd then have to queue up 40 mins at another currency change office to swap them for 'real pesos'. I find this quite fascinating. I ought to see all of that - as MAddie said - before Fidel Castro dies. Coz after that, in my opinion, the americans will be puting much more financial pressure on the country. The idea would be to get there before they start to accept foreign investments. At the moment, cubans are still simple people that are hapy with the little they have. ... the dream destination!

- Bolivia:
a country with two capital cities. That it self is pretty cool. Things are meant to be farely cheap there too.

- Machu Pichu In Peru
I heard a lot of disapointing pieces of information concerning main attractions in this place. apparently, Machu Pichu is miles away from anything, and the train that takes you there costs a fortune. You then pay also for an entry ticket that requires reserving several days ahead. Fronm what I understand,t hey're trying to limit the number of people visiting the site. I guess they're trying to protect the site.

- coffee trail in Colombia
something else you have to pay for - and its not cheap either!

- Desert in Peru
Peru has a desert that stands just at the limit of Lima, the capital. Its called Huacachina, and has an oasis there that looks like it comes from a computer desktop... Its looks magical, unreally, bloody raaad!!!! I' definitely goign there, especially since it's only 2 hours from Lima!

- Panama beaches and Islands.
I spoke to this girl who d just arrived through panama, she told everyone in the bar about her adventure, because people have a lot of trouvble geting past the border between Colombia and Panama. The best ways to do so seem to be either to come from up north, or to take a cruise boat from Carthagena in Colombia, throught he Islands of Panama. I looked up some pictures of the Caribbean: I'm quite sure I saw the same picture of people's screen savers. I was told about obne in particular called 'San Blas'. Those of you reading this should definitely check it out on google pics!

Life in teh hostel

Bogota, 20.01.11 - in the bar

I'm in a hostel called the Musicology Hostel. It's located in the Candelaria, right in front of the presidential palace, in an old colonial house. It's owned by this Israelian traveling business man. He owns two hostels of the sort: this one and one in Brazil.

I've been living here for the past 5 days. In fact, I won't be paying because they offered me a job as a bartender. In exchange, I get full accomodation! This will be my home from now on. The place is lovely, and the jobs particularly enjoyable. I get to talk to people from all around the world woth fantastic travelling experience. They make me dream. I feel I won't have enough time in my life to do all I'd like to experience around the world. I'm reallyenjoying it. Jobs easy, and really good company. I dont know how long ill be staying here. At the beginning, was just till i found a flat. But I quite like it here, and I guess it's a good way for me to save money before I start travelling, coz fromw hat I hear from other's experience, this could be a really expensive trip - but no doubt fascinating.

Mu colleagues are essentially south american. Main language among staff members is Spanish. Diego is the only colombian, Gabriel is Aregtinian, Yden the manager, is french, and Nicole is Californian. Clients however, are from all around the world. It's amazing to work at the bar and listen to their stories, they've all experienced such amazing things in their lives, and they talk about it with a good dose pf passion.

mercredi 19 janvier 2011

the hostel and its area

19.01.11. in the bar , Bogota









Taxi takes me to the center where the president lives and all the governmental institutions are> the the historical center of Bogota called La Candelaria. with pretty houses made of wood and clay. Sort you'd imagine in a Zorro film. They put paint over it but it all crumbles off. I didn-t take picturees of the institutions> they-re a boit borring in a very classic monumental neo classic style. The candelaria however is full of pretty and narrow streets. The area is just above the senate, and is located up on the hill. So we get the view on the city on one side, and you can ssee the mountains on the other. I got a view of it all from the balcony of the hostel. It-s a pleasure to look at while lying in a hammac. The area feal extra safe> since the president lives just up the road, there are ;iitaries at every street corner. It ruins the athmosphere, but I suppose they-re necessary. The hostel is located at the ideal place for all that I have to do> its just in between the active center with all the shops, and th univerrsity which is just a bit further up the hill. All the museums oare in this area as well, it will give me stuff oto do if I get borred, but I doubt I will. HEre are a few other pics of the Candelaria.

11.02.11 Bogota, Candellaria.

I've recebntly been thinking about moving out of the Candellaria. It made me look arund a bit more than usual, and realise how much this area looks like a picturesque village where people all know each other. The rest of Bogota is just high buildings and crazy vehicles. So here are a few later pictures of the area.



The cathedral of Bogota. This is where the candelaria starts. From here and up the hill.






Area near rthe university





arriving

So I.ve been here for five days only, and this lace is so fascinating abd different that I don't quite know where to start from. The easiest for me would be to try to tell things chronologically,

So the flight lasted nearly 28 hours including the 2 hour stop in Frankfurt. I was expecting it to be slightly shorter. Atleast I didn't get intot he same sort of trouble than when I came back from Hong Kong four years ago... that would have been deadly.

Getting through past the customs was fairly easy. No trouble to get my passport stamped. And then you get out of the terminal and start to feel dizzy.. apparently its due to the altitude. I'm in Bogota, and this 8.5 million inhabitant capital city is2600 meters up in the mountains. In fact, you even have problems breathing. The air however is quite plkeasant to breath (thats of course, for the little of air there actually is to breath): unlike what its like in parts of lower altitude where it feels more like air fromn the tropics, the air here seems very similar to what its like in Europe.

Bogota is living a ;ajor urban transformation with the extension to suberbs of the main transport system called the Transmilenio. It looks like a particularly long bus that drives along a road line made specially for it. To get on board, you need to queue up at a statuion as if you were going to catch a train. Other buses don't have bus stops: people just wave for it to approach, and people hop on it while the bus is still moving (bit it does slow down a bit). But I didn't use any of these means of transport: I took a taxi. Just mentioned it coz it was a nightmare getting to the center of the city, coz of all the road works of the trans;ilenio everywhere.

The taxi is something quite interesting: you can't just take any: you must always call the center. After telling them where you want to go, they tell you what the price would be approx, and they also provide you with a two digitt code. This code enables you to make sure you're steping into the proper taxi, and that the driver is not a crook. He basically can't start his counter unles sthe passenger gives him the write code. Everthing is done for you to feel as safe as possible. So, this is the taxi I'm taking to the center of Bogota: to the Candelaria where my hostel reservation is.