Welcome

dimanche 19 juin 2011

where I am at the moment

05.07.11

I know I haven't written a propper chapter in ages now! But I'm running out of time before mum and dad come along, So I'm trying to fit a lot in a small amount of time. Not only that: lots of exciting things have been happening: isited a mine of silver which people are STILL actively working in! Just been to some sort of a Jurassic park where you can spot REAL dinausor footprints!!

Now taking a night bus to cross over to Argentina. Pkan now is to try and get to PAraguay quicker than taking the train through the desert. It's a hhuge distance with only sand. No other way I thought than to get around it.

Will write from the other side of the border!


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03.07.11

Leaving La PAz for Sucre AT LAST! Too many things were keepong me here. On the move again


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25.06.11

Finally got to La Paz. I'm on my own now, and nobody to stay with. Off to look for a hostel. Haven't done that in quite a while! Fortunately this place is cheap. City os cold, but I'm sure there's loads to do. Not staying here too long since will be coming back again with mum and dad. Hopefuly, the border will be open again by then.


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24.06.11

Rushing down south with a Colombian traveling down to Santa Cruz, and that I met in Lima. Only stayed in the peruvian capitala few hours. Now in Arequipa. Lots of sun and beautiful sight on snowcaped mountains.

Problems at the peruvian border with Bolivia. Solution we've got is to get to Bolivia through a Chilean border. So we're on our way to Arica, north of Chile, in just about 5 mins. Will post again then.


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19.06.11

MAde it across the peruvian desert last night towards 11PM. now far far away from Montanita, the parties and drinking sessions. Now on my own again, free to sleep wherever I want again, tae any means of transport. Back on extra low budget.

Now at Chiclayo, stuck here because of father's day. will check out Lambayeque to see what all the fuss is about.

Trying to get down to Trujillo as quickly as possible. Major archeological site there, then making the big crossover to Bolivia, to skip the part I'll be visiting with mum and dad.


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14.06.11

Left Baños last night, just got to the Pacific coast, at Puerto Lopez. No sun yet.... should be crossing into peru in the next few days. Really late on schedule!

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11.06.11

Just as I d finished writing my previous mesage, we'd realised that Marie had her bag stollen. Nothing important: just her favourit poncho seemed to be an issue, and her sleeping bag.

Chimborazo is the name of the volcano. It was impressive climbing up there. Will post pics.
Quilotoa was also a nice walk.

Currently staying in a city called Baños. People come her for the thermanl baths. Fulll of foreigners. But we're here to relax. We met nice youngsters we're staying with. Next move: to the pacific coast

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09.06.11

Back in Latacunga.
Just come back from what might have been the best treck of my trip so far. Quilooa tour is becoming extra popular. Area is full of foreigners in proportion to he number of locals. Beatifull scenaries and fantastic weather. No time to post: places are extra remote.

Now heading to Riobamba where we're starting a hike up the biggest volcano of Ecuador. It's also the furthest spot on earth from its center. MEans that gravity will be stronger than anywhere else. We'll see how we cope with it.

I lost my indian walking stick: I forgot it in a bus just three hours ago... *sigh*


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04.06.11


In Quito. Having a splendid time goign around with a friendly girl from france. Just visited the "center of the world" where they show you a whole load of experiments to prove we're on the equator. One amazing thing I did: managed to stand an egg up stait on a nail.... They gave me a certificate for having been able to do it!


Nest move:bus up north together, to visit the cloud forests. Probably look in to spending a night there, then climbing a volcano: furthest point on earth, from the center of the earth! Goign to make the walk all the more difficult due toi gravity!


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02.06.11

Crossed the border over to Ecuador yesterday. Still travelling in the 4x4, and we're now far down south of the supposed gerilla area. Should be in Quito by this evening. Not sure we're stopping anywhere between here and there.

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30.05.11

Cool. sinc ethere actually are people reading this, I'll proceed!!!! Thanks everyone!
So, I've left what may have been paradise on earth. San Augustin was fantastic. Now traveling in a 4x4, making my way down to Ecuador. Next stop should be Ipiales on the boarder, still on colombian side

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25.05.11

Just couldnt leave Bogota. Spent most of my time there visiting friends and reloading my bag with new stuff. But I finally made it out and I'm now in Popayan, south of the country and south of the presumed FARC occupied area. Planning on staying a few days. Tonight, taking a bus to San Augusting where a friend is hosting me, and visit another who's recently moved in an indian village up in the mountains. I have to rent a horse to get up there...


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17.05.11

Back on Bogota.
Surprisingly good weather. Staying not at the hostel, but with some frieds!


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15.05.11.

Well, after having been to Cuba, then traveling through north coast of Vnezuela and through the Andies, I'm now back in Colombbia. currently spending some time up in the mountains, in Pamplona. Tomorrow; goign to visit a village a bit higher up, calld Silos. Within two days, I'm hoping to be in Bogota to do some paper work.



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18.04.11

Just spent the day around Caracas. I'm currently at the airport, and it seems like I'm goign to have to spend a fair amount of time here since I missed my plane to Cuba. ... I was meant to be there tonight at 8PM. It's goign to have to wait. With a bit of luck, I'll be on that same plane tomorrow.


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17.04.11.

I just woke up in MAracaibo. It's the second largest city of Venezuela, just on the other side off the northern boarder of colombia. Crossed the border in a city called MAicao. Place is quite okay, its very hot. planning omn taking a night bus up to Carracas. Lots of Police controls on the roads. Guess that's a good thing.

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11.04.11

Moved again. Went further up north. Already was a big temperature difference between Bogota and San Gil in Santander, but now I'm on the caribbean coast. First sight of it was'mt quite what I was expecting: I 'm quite sure those were petrol ships I saw...

Anyway, won't judge just yet. Its hot, I'm goign to take a moto taxi to join a mate in the city. Will be staying here a few days to try to do the Lost City treck with locals as guides instead of paramilitaries... Pictures coming soon of course. NExt move will be trying to get to Venezuela through the northern coast. Will let you know when anyway!

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08.04.11

So, by the time you see this message, I'll be on the road.
First stop up towards the coast will be San Gil where I'm planning to take tsome propper time off my work. two days there messing about. The place is a village lost in the middle of the colombian Andes. Trecking will probably be ñy ñain activity. But let's just get there and see.
Pictures will be posted soon.

Also lots to say and show about my last sdays in Bogota. And I realise that I never posted anything about the university!...


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This page is to help you see where exactly I am at the moment.

mercredi 15 juin 2011

Puerto Lopez






15.06.11.

Today was really special. To start with, we've reached the pacific coast. Travelling has gotten more expensive since I'm with Marie. To start with, she's not well equiped to sleep outdoors, and sicne she got a part of her things stollen along with her sleeping bag, we've spent most of our nights in hostels. However, I chose to spend a major amount of money today to visit "La Isla de la Plata" (30 USD) that was on Marie's itinerary... the place is nicknamed "the poor man's Gualapagos".... was absolutely worth every penny.



Puerto Lopez, main street



Fishermen starting the day.



The stuff they come back with... you may notice that the three at the bottom of the picture are in fact sharks... We went snorkeling all the same!



The strange creatures you find on the island:

- patos azules, called "boobies in english" ...no its truye!


- Tourists:


- Baby boobies


- More boobies


- yup I was there too-



- someones fishtank contenmts:


- But what made the day special

.....

, ... was our encoungter ....



with these guys, who seemed straight out of the discovery channel....








(click on pics to enlarge)



I was told they were observable on the coasts of PEru as well.. hopefully, I'll be able to take mum and dad there. It felt like being in a dream. Dad will just have to put up with sea sickness!

Quito: met up with MArie

04.06.11

Met up with Marie in Quito, a french girl I met while travelling south of Colombia. We decided to travel together for a while.

vendredi 10 juin 2011

Chimborazo

10.06.11

As if the walk around the lake haden't killed me enough,m we went for another. This time, we chose to climb up the Chimborazo. 6500 meters above sea level, but also - considerring its location close to the equator - the furthest spot on earth from it scenter. Lack of air, the cold, high altitude... extreme experience.



First sight:





As gigh as we were able to get since we had no equipment to deal with the snow peak. We'd started at 3800m and reached 4800.

mercredi 8 juin 2011

The Quilotoa Loop




08.06.11

First major hike in the region. The Quilotoa loop in in the center of the country, and takes you through some very authentic villages. Problem: lots of tourists around. Still was extra pleasant. Exhausting walks and nearly fainted after 12 hours of it. ... I blame the lack of oxygen. Fortunately Marie is a MEdic student and knew what to do!



View over the valley. Starting our walk at 7AM



Asking for the way:


PEople who stopped to stare:


Us at teh lake

Path around the lake, at the top of the mountains.



When I was close to death:



When we made it our of the fog. End of the walk.




EXTRAS.


Little yellow flower called "zapatitos" (= "little shoes" or slippers)

vendredi 3 juin 2011

Ottavalo.

03.06.11

Ottavalo is a Market north of Ecuador, just a few hundred kilometers on the otherside of the Colombian border. thats where I left Mike and her american mum who owned the jeep I drove.

jeudi 2 juin 2011

Crossing of the Ecuadorian border and San Gabriel

02.06.11

I'm in a village called San Gabriel in the north of Ecuador. There's nothing here. But all the same: I feel excited about being in a new country. This place uses US dollars for currency. It doesn't feel quite right paying for my empenadas with green bank notes...

I crossed over the border yesterday with Carole and her son. We're still in the 4x4. Crossing from Mocoa to Pasto in Colombia was fascinating. It was a stone path through the mountains, we had to drive through rivers, water falls by the hundreds over a distance of 100km, and all this under the rain!!! The day after that, we got to Impiales where there's this big cathedral built over a canyon. I'll send some pics as soon as possible.

lundi 30 mai 2011

San Augustin

30.05.11

This morning, I left what may have been paradise on earth. San Augustin was a cheap place for me to stay, especially since evrybody there live hippy style. A metal roof, and a few bricks to avoid your hammock from swinging too much. Good also to not blow out your fire too quicklly. I'm good at living that way and people being so friendly; I was quickly able to mak friends and find a place to stay. Within no time, the whole village knew El Vaquero Chino, "The Chinese Cowboy".

Place is full of archeological sites. i found an old travel mate there: Franck from Tyrona! He's got a life there: his own horse and has nearly adopted his own family. I w invited to people's homes for nearly every meal. Lots to do during the day: suprbe walks and archeological sites to visit. Lots of statues of the type you'd usually associate with latin american ancient cultures. But that's not all. Legend ays that there are tunels under the ground on San Augustin. Currently, an archeologica team from th national university of Colombia is excavating what seems to be a pyramid covered under mud. For centuries, people lthought it was just an ordinary hill. Tunnels ar meant to lead to an undrground hidden city!!!

I met lots of travellers there, and lots of very friendluy locals who helped me a lot. Travelling has become much cheaper since I am able to commuicate propperly;a nd have decent conversations with the locals. I get a lot of help from people, and good ideas. mong other people, i met a north american lady in her 50s, traveling with her 7 year old son in a 4 by 4 they bought in Quito, Ecuador 2 months ago.. She has some sort of a pain in left arm that makes it difficult for her to drive. I suggsted to take her back to Quito where she needs to catch a plane in 12 days. We've now ben travelling together for the past 24 hours, and we're heading towards Ipiales, on the border with Ecuador.



dimanche 15 mai 2011

Pamplona and area

15.05.11

Here's another university city right up there in the mountains. Here, wwe're 2600meters up in the andies. I can really tell and feel I'm back in colombia: people are nice, and wearing traditional Ruanas in the streets. Since I lost my Qantas airlines traveling blanket at Caracas international airport, I'm thinking about getting a woolen ruana for the rest of my trip. Its goignt os tart getting cold as I make my way down south, and this city seems to be the perfect place to find one.

I'm makig the most of this place to go walking up in the hills. With the company of a 25 year old engineer in electronics that i met here, I walked up to a lagoon where we found a boat just sitting there on the bank. We hoped in for a ride to get across to the oods on the other side. It was only on our way back doown the mountain that we came across a farmer ho told us that the boat was no longr in use since they had to go fish it out of the lagoon. Ita had already sunken once....

W were starving by the tie we got back to the vilage we'd started from; So the same farmer invited us into his house for some food. He'djust been fishing in the lagoon and had caught a huge red fish that i'd nevr seen before. We did't get to eat the fish that time. instead, his wife offered us this really thisck soop made with the usuall stuff they eat here. So rice, potato, platane, and yuca allmixed together. There was also a bone foting in my bowl, but with no meat on it at all!










samedi 14 mai 2011

Contact me

15.05.11.

Got a new charger for my phone. I'm now reachable again on my french mobile phone number.? hone will be on constantly.


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In order to contact me:

- it can be as simple as leaving a message on this blog. You don't need to have your own blog to do this. You could just type your name in so that i know whos writing. Or you could just write anonymoyusly.
- you can send me an email> ally7567t_ACSJC@hotmail.com
- I use both a colombian and a french sim card here. I can receive text messages sent onto my french telephone> it will cost you no more than sending a text message to any other mobile phone in Europe. I can also receive messages sent to me from websites such as www.textograto.com. Using this will cost you nothing except for a bot of time. don't forget to sign your message after typing it in, so that i know who it is actually giving a damn about where i am!!!!

I hope to hear from you all very soon!

Back in Colombia: Cucuta





Got back to Colombia. Suddenly feels like home. Im more acustomed to the way people behave, I know what to expect from people in the streets. Feels much safer for one thing. And I have a bit more money to spend here.

I'm in cicita. Its a city on the border with Venezuela. Not sure there's anything interesting here. People are nice that0s for sure. I'm thinking about catching a bus to a small mountain village called Pamplona, then move on to Silos: only 1300 ihabs. Should be able to camp there. But above all, there're some anciant pre colombian graves there I d like to see!

Will let you know. Loads of fotos on their way, Just that people don t seem to have computers at home for me to use....

mardi 10 mai 2011

Merida

10.05.11.

I arrived in this city yesterday. Its a small city of 400 000 inhabitants. most of which are students. Did really inmteresting stuff here too. To start with, I live up in the hills, in the country side. View is fantastic.



Cool things I did here in less than 24 hours, most of it is experiencing student life in an extra socialist country:

- went to a union cinema that cost 1BsF for a ticket, You never know which film its going to be, but apparently, its always interesting. This time, it was a french film. Josiane Balasko was speaking spanish. "Le Herison." Strongly recommended. There were two electricity cuts in the city during the film. The organisors went out to find an electric generator to finish playing the film

- Introduced to an old lady of 90 years old, who livesin a century old house in the country. We had a good chat about her fascinating life as a religious missionary in the venezuelian jungle.



- assisted a university seminar of a very fameous philosopher called José Manuel Briceño Guerrero, from Universidad Los Andes de Merida. HE masters something like 20 different languages, including amndarin, hebrew, latin, persian etc... During the seminar, he spoke to me in absolutely all the languages I can speak, and he speaks them all really well. Topic of the 4 hour course was a poem by Goethe. Erlkonig, which will certainly remind William and Christopher of the years spent with Madame Couloumie.

- Ate lunch at the student union. HEre in Venezuela, not only is education COMPLETELY free for everyone, but food at the uni restaurant is free as well. And since everybody here is so good at making the most of the system, they all eat two or three servings!


dimanche 8 mai 2011

Caracas

08.05.11

I left caracas. So many things to say that here is just a list of what happened. Will give more details upon request, or you ll have to wait for the pictures.

- visited a Bario (thats the venezuelian word to say "shantytown") called "23 enero". 350 000 inhabitants live there. Even had luch there in someone's house!
- celebrated my birthday party with more than 30 people singing some sort of Venezuelian birthday song.

I ended up staying there much longer than i d originally planned.


In the Bario









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04.05.11

I've been in Venezuela for the past week, and my opinion about this country has changed radically. Here's something strange that I've only ever experienced in this country: people that at work are despicable. But the same people in the streets, outside all working conditions, are the nicest in the world. While working, people will never ever give you clear directions, when they're off work, they could litteraly drive you to the place you want to go to.

After the plane landed from Cuba, I was able to check my email at the airport. No internet in Cuba... people don't have it coz it still costs what it used to cost in europe 15years ago. 10 dollars a minute or so. And well, reeived this eail saying i had this urgent piece of work to hand in. and ince i don't have quite the right conditions to write, I stayed four days and three nights at the airport, just coz it seemed like the better place to stay for it. Free access to th internet, food outside sold by epeople from the bario, and toilets were clean! i niw know what tom hanks felt like stuck in the USA...

Since I've figured out that people were atually nice here, I've decided to stay a few days. I didn't have many american dollars when i got here. pitty coz the rate of change is really interesting. 8 BsF for a dollar instead of 4.50bls if you got o an official exchange office. After the death of Bin Laden, value of the dollar even went up to 12bsF, and the euro went up to 15!!!! Anyway, another new experience: I was robbed for the very forst time of my life. Guess what?! It was the police who robbed me! I only had the equivalence of 30dollars US to have ripped off me - a rather good and interesting eperience for what I payed for it., but that would have enabled me to live another 2 weeks here! Now I have to use my credit card, and the place is suddenly much more expensive...

However, I'd like to stay till saturday before I head down to Merida. There's a party on friday I want to attend. I've made friends here and they're inviting me to it. Meanwhile, I've been visiting museums. Since this is an extra socialist country (that uses Cuba as a model of society), well everything is free of charge. Paradise for a bakpacker! I really don't get why there are't more visitors here. But better off that way, I'd rather people were afraid and didn't come, rather than having foreign people walking around with ice cream cones and sun glasses, speaking loud voice in the metro.

It's raining today. I was meant to go out with an urbanist to take some pictures of the "barios". (Venezuelian equivalent of the Favellas inn Brazil). i real pitty it was cancelled coz of the rain. would have been a unique opportunity to see wht life is like for the major part of venezuelian population.


Picture of some buildings in the center of Caaracas. Made me think i was in the Fith Element (Luc Besson)




Metro de Caracas





Center of Caraccas, old city - Capitollo


mercredi 4 mai 2011

Traveling tips - lesson 1: dealing with the police

I've encountered many strange situations while traveling, and one of the main issues of any traveler is most likely to be the risk of being robbed. There are thieves like you see them in movies with knives and stuff, and there're the ones you come across when you're really traveling. The first ones probably do exist. Fortunately, I've never encountered them before, but I reckon you find them in particular places, like dark streets, large cities in the middle of the night, when nobody is watching. Best is just to avoid those places. Most likely, the thieves that will rob you will be completely unsuspected. All they need, is a good excuse to get close to you. The police in uniforms for example, are the perfect undercover to get close enough to rip your money off you. After several years of traveling experience, I've formulated the following tips that have been useful in many situations.

1 - The first thing that the police should ask you when you're traveling, are your documents. If they ask you too many other questions before, you should be start being alert. Foreigners are usually convinced that the police has no right to touch you. I think that when you're in a foreign country, there's no way you can really know what the local behavior should be when approached by the police. For this reason, the first thing you should do during a police control, is ask for the police man´s working ID. There are two reasons why you should do this. First, you can make sure that the person you're dealing is actually is a police man. Secondly, it make's the policeman understand that you are in possession of his personal information, information that you could potentially report if ever he had any bad intentions - like robbing you for example. If ever he refuses to show you his ID, be really suspicious, call for help, or do what's necessary to be taken to the police station. Find the reason for this in the following paragraph...

2 - The second tip against the risk of robbery is only theoretical, and issued from my studies in sociology. But it just seems to have worked so far. People in their natural or usual social environment have a reputation. They're in an area where they have a name - where people know them - because simply, they live, work or just hang out there. Therefor, there are other eyes to look upon them, and make sure that they aren't doing anything stupid. For this reason, you should be able to trust the common street person, especially if he seems to just be hanging out, or just sitting there looking at people and cars go by. On the other hand, the police patrol is NEVER in their natural environment. Therefor, it is more likely for them to do something silly -like robbing your for example - , especially when there's only a small number of them, like in the case of a motorcycle patrol. This is valid not only in the case of the police, but for any individuals that don't seem to be at home. Therefor: trust more the locals who are socially controlled - trust less the aliens who have nothing to loose, and less at stake if they rob you! Borders and stations are therefor also spots of potential risk. For this reason, if the police won't cooperate, call for the locals to help. If you're taken to the police station, then the policemen will all be in their natural environment, where they must all behave!

3 - In case none of the previous pieces of advice prove to be efficient, then you ought to have respected this third tip, which is usually natural to any traveler. It is essential to separate the locations in which you keep your money. Not only does it make it more difficult for the police to find it. If you're lucky, they might miss out on some spots, but more especially, you'll notice if they start showing some suspicious interest in the places where you keep money, when they start collecting your bank notes and other means of payment. In this case, turn back to the basics reaction and scream for help!

mardi 3 mai 2011

Cuba

03.05.11

Right, It's been 5 days or so sine I'm BACK from Cuba. I actually made it there. What an adventure it was to get there.
Cuba is a fantastic place. Very tourist friendly. They have all the infrastructure there.Not like Venezuela! I'm currently in Caracas and I'vve met loads of people here. So instead of waisting time sedning info here that nobody reads anywy, I'll send a few pics this evening.

But for sure: Cuba is a place to visit before it changes.

PS: Special thanks to those of you (Ms. M) who have inspired me to go there!!!



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18.04.11.

Yeah well I'm meant to be in Cuba right now. I never left Venezuelian soil. It would be a mirracle if I actually got there within the next 48 hours...

Caribbean coast near Santa Marta


16.04.11.

What a life hre!just come out of Tayrona park- 2 days on screen saver like beaches, and a two day treck through the jugnle. was fabulosu! Treck was exhausting but took us through parts that were completely unsuspected. Came accross ruins of an old pre colombian city on the top of the mountain. It was a four hour walk from any road or beach, and given the heat, there was obviously nobody there. We found indigeinous children playing on a tree as thick as a house. They were dressed like dobby in Harry Potter: with nothing more than what seemed to be a pillow case. They were just as dirty as well. On the way down to the road that was meant o take us back to santa marta, we didn't tget to the road on time. People in this area comunicate by sending signals that sound like animals. We answered one and they automatically responded in spanish. A family invited us to their farm set on the top of a hill. They offered us a simple but very heavy dibnner, and we spent the night in our hammocks, in theyr front balcony... The fañily had 6 children and three grand children in a place made of wood, no electricity, and the size of the sitting room in Saint-maur. Fantastic experience talking to them.

Same story[ will send pics when internet will be free.
now heading to the venezuelian boarder.

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I just woke up on a beach of Santa Marta, on the Caribbean coast. Didn't use a cover or a jumper all night. The fealing when opening your eyes on a white beach under a couple of palm trees is now definitely on my personal top 100 things to experience in life before you die!

Should be meeting up with my mate Frank today, to head towards another part of the coast together. We'll make an attempt in exploring the Ciudad PErdida together. Maybe some argentinian and Finnish friends will join us.